Glace à gogo: Our guide to the best ice cream in Toulouse
It’s hard to find a more ideal ingredient to summer fun than ice cream – except maybe sunshine! We’re lucky to be in Toulouse where we’ve got sunshine (and heat!) in abundance. And now, Taste of Toulouse has you covered, because we’re here to take you on a tour in search of the best “glace” – no longer just a treat but an essential component to summer in Toulouse!
Ice cream was first introduced to the general public in 1686. Before this, it was a dessert reserved for royalty and the very wealthy due to the complexities and expense of transporting and storing the necessary ice without modern-day refrigeration. But then a Sicilian named Procopio democratized ice cream by opening the Café Le Procope in Paris which served ices, and hosted acclaimed guests over the centuries including Voltaire, Balzac, Rousseau, and Benjamin Franklin. Voltaire allegedly said, “Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal.”
We’ve come a long way from those times, but the basics are still the same – for an “iced cream”, you mix milk and/or cream, sugar, (sometimes) eggs, and your choice of flavorings, then churn and freeze. In short, it’s the ingredients that matter, as well as the skill of the maker.
What’s the difference between ice cream and gelato/glace?
You might notice some differences between classic North American ice cream and the European-style “glace” (French) or “gelato” (Italian) that you find in France. Important note: recipe-wise, there’s not a lot of difference between French “glace” and Italian “gelato” – it’s the same style of what we’ll call “European” ice cream, just different languages.
Typically, European ice cream has less fat in it because of a higher milk-to-cream ratio and usually (but not always) fewer eggs. It is denser, as milk doesn’t incorporate air as easily as cream (think of beating milk vs whipping cream) and because European ice cream is churned at a lower speed. Without all that air to keep it fluffy, European ice cream would freeze into solid blocks if it were served at the same temperature as North American ice cream, so it is served at a warmer temperature that keeps it more moldable. The reduced fat, the density, and the warmer temperature all combine to make European-style ice cream taste more intense and more direct, meaning there’s less fat to coat your tongue and our taste buds send stronger signals to the brain when we eat foods at higher temperatures.
Because it is more dense, European ice cream is usually sold in smaller scoops or “boules,” which gives the advantage of being able to try out more flavors at once (compared to the huge scoops you’ll find in North America)!
You’ll be asked if you want it in a “pot” (cup) or a “cornet” (cone). In addition to “glace,” sorbet – which is made with little-to-no dairy – is also a popular option. For vegans and those with lactose intolerance, any good ice cream shop will be able to tell you which sorbets are dairy free.
How to spot quality ice cream
Color – Do these colors exist in the real fruits or nuts? Bright green pistachio or fluorescent yellow banana are dead giveaways of artificial coloring. Ask yourself, what would the real fruit look like if I smashed it?
Presentation – Great heaping mounds of ice cream that tower over the pans may look pretty, but if it’s piled far above the source of refrigeration, it’s either frozen solid (not good) or probably packed with fats and artificial emulsifiers to keep it from melting.
Labeling – What does the shop say about the ingredients they use? Many low-quality ice creams are made from powdered mixes with lots of preservatives, and some shops that boast that their ice cream is “fait ici” (made here) use these powdered mixes instead of making ice cream from scratch. Look for shops that give you information about whether or not they use artificial colorings, preservatives, or mixes and where they source their ingredients. Using seasonal produce for limited-edition flavors is also a good sign.
What’s in a name?
Here in France, the following terms are useful to know when it comes to finding talented, local craftspeople. Certain uses of words are protected in order to promote and preserve craftsmanship and savoir-faire.
Artisan Glacier – A business displaying the title of “artisan” means that a craftsperson at the business is registered with the La Chambre des Métiers (the organization that regulates many trades) and has the proper qualifications for a specific trade, usually a CAP/BAP (professional certificates in that can be achieved through a professional-track high school at the age of 17-18, or as an adult through continuing education) or at least 3 years of professional experience. (Don’t be fooled though – look out for the term “Glace artisanale” as it is NOT protected and anyone can use it!)
Maître Artisan Glacier – The title of “Maître Artisan” denotes a much higher degree of professional qualification – usually the equivalent of a master’s degree plus at least 2 years of professional experience or 10+ years of professional experience. This title is much more highly regulated than “artisan.”
Glaces & Sorbets de Tradition Française – You will find this label displayed in shop windows. Established by the Confédération Nationale des Glaciers de France (CNGF), this is a strict charter of quality to prove the ice-cream maker possesses the required expertise and adheres to the specifications of making top-quality ice cream. You may also see the associated official title of Glaces Artisanales de France on the business’s website which guarantees high-quality ingredients and qualified professionalism.
Our favorite ice cream shops in/around Toulouse
Bello & Angeli Artisan Chocolatier Glacier
This talented local chocolatier is one of our favorites year-round for their high-quality and innovative range of chocolates, hot chocolate, and ice cream. They take great care with sourcing ingredients (fruit is sourced locally when possible) and everything is made fresh in their workshop just outside of Toulouse.
They offer a wide range of flavors, from the traditional (strawberry, vanilla) to the exotic (calamansi), to the highly local (Occitanie melon, raspberry), but everything I’ve tried has been easily some of the best I’ve ever had of that particular flavor. You’ll probably find me here at least once a week, not only because it’s the closest top-quality ice cream to my apartment, but also because it’s just that good!
My main scoop: A luscious chocolate sorbet made with single-origin dark chocolate from the Ivory Coast that had all of the complexity of a dark chocolate truffle without being weighed down by the usual fattiness of ice cream. Also, a rich caramel that perfectly balances the tight-rope between sweet and savory.
I’d be doing you a disservice if I didn’t mention their amazing fruit sorbets, like locally-sourced raspberry and strawberry or mango-passion fruit that’s a perfect pick-me-up for a hot summer afternoon.
Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday: 10:00 – 19:00, Sunday and Monday 14:00 – 19:00
Address: 4 rue Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse
Barrelle Chocolatier Glacier Blagnac
This chocolatier/glacier opened in Blagnac in 2017. Alexandre Albanese, one of the two co-founders, is a triple threat – trained in chocolates, pastry, AND ice cream – and everything in their shop is made by his hands with quality products that were carefully selected. The milk and eggs are sourced from local farms and they highly value ethical sourcing when it comes to their chocolate, vanilla, and coffee. Barrelle is a Glaces Artisanales de France and received a Gault & Millau award for their Madagascan vanilla ice cream in 2019. Their ice creams are available by the scoop, in bars, and in tubs should you wish to stock up your freezer!
My main scoop: Try any of their unique sorbets made with seasonal fruits and herbs, such as the pineapple-mint and lemon-basil, or their current best-seller, orange blossom-pistachio, but flavors rotate depending on the season, so be prepared for a delicious surprise.
Opening times: Tuesday to Friday, 10:00 – 13:00, 14:00 – 19:00, Saturday 9:30 – 19:00
Address: 35 rue Pasteur, 31700 Blagnac
Cacaofages
Our favorite left-bank chocolatier in the Saint-Cyprien neighborhood makes excellent-quality ice cream. Made on-site, the range of 24 flavors is impeccably crafted to highlight intriguing combinations of both fruit and vegetables! Go to try a cone of carrot, turmeric and ginger – a gourmet version of a healthy juice – or indulge yourself with the incredibly creamy fleur de lait, cookies and caramel. The violet, blueberry and raspberry sounds particularly delicious during a long hot summer, and one you must try to sample the flavor of Toulouse! And of course, you can’t miss their single-origin chocolate ice cream from Honduras; they are a chocolate shop after all!
My main scoop: The sesame ice cream is really something special, charcoal grey and nutty, or try the utterly refreshing cucumber and kiwi, crisp yet fruity enough to be a sweet indulgence.
Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday, 9:30 – 19:30, Monday 13:00 – 19:30
Address: 27 rue Réclusane, place de l’Estrapade, 31300 Toulouse
Philippe Faur
This Maître Artisan glacier is based in Caumont (in nearby Tarn-et-Garonne) and has produced over 120 different flavors of ice cream! He prioritizes 100% natural and local ingredients; the milk is sourced from a local dairy farm only 10 km from his workshop. In 2012, Gault & Millau awarded him the title of Best Artisan Glacier in France, and in 2015, he was crowned the European Champion of Frozen Desserts!
You can find his ice cream served by the scoop under the Place du Capitole arcades, at the Philippe Faur kiosk at Grand Café le Florida, in the Toulouse city center. (Go here to beat the lines at the Amorino ice cream shop located a few stores down!)
My main scoop: The tart-n-tangy Cassis (blackcurrant) sorbet or the lait fermier (farm milk) with Pyrenees Mountain honey, for a real taste of the local terroir.
Opening times: Monday to Friday, 7:00 – 2:00, Saturday to Sunday, 7:00 – 3:00
Address: 12 Place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse
Ô Sorbet d’Amour
Another Maitre Artisan glacier on this list, Ô Sorbet d’Amour was founded in 1935 in Arcachon (a coastal town near Bordeaux), and boasting over 20 locations (some franchises) around the world, it counts Toulouse as one of the originals. Despite global aspirations, Ô Sorbet d’Amour still sources milk from a neighboring dairy farm and makes all of their ice cream at their laboratory in the Gironde. There they produce around 90 different flavors, a dizzying array, some of which are organic, as well as a multitude of dairy-free sorbets.
My main scoop: A refreshing strawberry-basil sorbet that was wonderfully fruity with just enough basil to offset the sweetness. Should you crave something creamy, I also enjoyed the pecan ice cream with real pecan chunks.
Opening times: Monday to Sunday, 13:00 – 12:00
Address: 28 rue Montardy, 31000 Toulouse
Glaces Moustache
Originally from Saint Malo in Bretagne, Moustache is an exciting franchise that boasts over 140 flavors (regular, organic, and vegan) that are made with no preservatives, powdered mixes, dyes, or additives. Named after the messy ice cream moustache gained from a well-enjoyed cone, Moustache is a playful brand which you can tell from just glancing at their imaginative flavor combinations!
Glace here is sold by the “super boule” (at least twice the size of a normal scoop), which can make it difficult to order multiple flavors. However, tasting before buying is highly encouraged at this friendly shop, so we didn’t have to worry about making the wrong choice!
My main scoop: If you want to show your true Toulousain colors, they have a chocolatine-flavored scoop!
Opening times: Monday to Sunday, 13:00 – 12:00
Address: 16 Place Saint-Pierre, 31000 Toulouse
La Glacerie Toulousaine
A stone’s throw from the river Garonne, La Glacerie Toulousaine is that essential pit stop before walking down to the water’s edge or sitting on their sunny terrace for an afternoon repose. Here, the ice creams and sorbets are all organic, the latter also being vegan.
My main scoop: Confiture de lait (dulce de leche) is a flavor I can never say no to, but maybe be experimental and try their extensive range of sorbets including chocolate, hibiscus, watermelon, and the rather wild tomato and basil!
Opening times: Sunday to Thursday, 13:00 – 21:00, Friday and Saturday, 13:00 – 23:00
Address: 5 Pl. de la Daurade, 31000 Toulouse
Le Palais de Themis
In 2021, the owner of Librairie des Lois – a local legal bookstore – fulfilled his childhood dream and opened a nearby ice cream shop, selling the ice cream of his youth: Berthillon. This iconic ice-cream brand was established as an artisanal, family-run ice cream store in Paris in the 1950s and grew to become the most famous in the capital, a true Parisian institution. There, they make around 1,000 liters of ice cream and sorbet a day!
Berthillon ice cream is made with natural ingredients including high-quality cream and fresh fruit and eggs for a more indulgent, richer flavor. The range of flavors is enormous and always within season, typically served in silver coupes with a tuile or a swirl of Chantilly.
Named after Themis, the Greek goddess of justice, the ice cream shop keeps its ties to the legal world, however, here Themis appears to be the goddess of hospitality and great taste.
My main scoop: The flavours here are kept simple – no need to overcomplicate such a tried and true recipe! Look out for peach, apricot, and pear, but they also have a roasted pineapple and basil for the adventurous!
Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday, 12:30/13:00 – 19:00
Address: 11 Rue des Lois, 31000 Toulouse
So, this summer in Toulouse, pack your sunglasses, sunscreen, and this list of ice cream shops – your survival pack for the warm weather! All of these ice cream parlors offer incredible quality, so you will not be disappointed. And no doubt we will see you there!
